Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build, Section 34: Canopy Installation (part 12)

Reference: Page 34-16; 9.0 hours

The canopy fiberglass layup is complete on the RV-12 airplane kit. Because I didn't remove the gas struts earlier, so today's work is going to be more of a challenge.

Step 1: Cut out around the canopy pivot bolt.



Builder's note: Because the gas struts are installed I just can't remove the bolt and pop off the canopy. So first I loosen the lay up from the RV-12 fuselage using a chip chaser.



Step 3: Next I taped the canopy Trim template to the sides and carefully cut the fiberglass with a razor saw while protecting the underlaying structure with a thin piece of spring steel.





This gave me enough clearance to partial raise the canopy and remove the gas struts while compressing them. And remove the canopy.





With the canopy remove I finished trimming the fiberglass.









Step 2: Went back and redrilled the three holes on each side.



Step 4: Placed the canopy back on the RV-12 airframe and took care of any places it was hitting the fuselage as it rotated up.



Step 5, page 34-15: Sanding and filling of the fairing. The idea is to have a smooth transition into the bubble canopy. I like to put poly bag material over the epoxy to allow me to smooth out the area before it sets up and reduces sanding. It peels right off after it has cures.



After a lot of careful sanding the first layer of electrical tape is removed.



That's it for this entry I still have a lot of work to get the canopy fairing done on the RV-12. Not difficult just time consuming.

Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build, Section 34: Canopy Installation (part 11)

Reference: Page 34-14, 34-15; 7.5 hours

Today starts the fiberglass work on the RV-12 airplane canopy in ernest. Originally I planned on tinting the fiberglass black using epoxy tint from Tap Plastics, but I gave it to someone. Then I thought about using liquid Rite dye as West Epoxy systems suggested but after testing it I decided to just use epoxy as it comes and then covering the inside of the canopy bubble where it shows.

The RV-12 plans call for doing the two sides of the canopy fiberglass first and then trying to add the center fiberglass across the middle of the canopy. I decided to lay all three areas up at once. This will make for a much stronger layup. So today's entry is a mix of steps from the two pages. It's going to be a long day so let's get started.

Step 1, page 34-14; Contour the two foam blocks.







Step 2: Tape the canopy mask to both the left and right sides.



Step 2: Using the masks as a guide ran a strip of electrical tape from one side to the other side. Then laid a second layer of tape over it.



Step 4: Cut out the ten plies of 9 oz. fiberglass. A rotary cutter makes this very easy.





Step 1, page 34-15: Cut out the series of fiberglass strips as outlined.



Step 5, page 34-14: Sanded the exposed canopy with 60 grit sandpaper and clean it. Put packing tape over the duct tape so the exopy will pop loose after it has cured.



Builder's note: I used PVA mold release on the mylar tap versus the wax called out by Van's Aircraft, and let it dry before moving forward.



Step 6: Cut the upper edge of the canopy foam blocks to create a 1/8" shelf build these up with flox and epoxy.



Step 7 & 8 : Lay up the first layers of fiberglass cloth on plastic (I used poly material). Wet it with epoxy and lay it up on the RV-12 canopy.



Builder's note: The method I used is the do one layer on both sides and then the first layer of the center section. And then continued working this pattern up through all of the layers. Keep in mind the center section has 10 plys and the sides only have 5 so this need to be taken into consideration as layers are added. The trick is not to have pools of resin on the cloth. One method I've seen is to lay the next layer on dry and let it soak up the extra resin from the layer below. Then wet out any dry areas with more epoxy. Peal ply can then be placed over the finished layup. Because extra resin is just extra weight not strength.



Builder's note: I didn't cover the lower part of the fuselage under the canopy but it would be a good idea.

This completes pages 34-14 and 34-15. Step 5 on page 34-15 will be completed during the finishing of the canopy. With the heat left on I let the fiberglass work set and cure.

Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build, Section 34: Canopy Installation (part 10)

Reference: Page 34-13; 2.0 hours

Fiberglass and epoxy work is just around the corner on the RV-12 airplane canopy! It's not bad stuff to work with just different from aluminum.

Step 1: Mask the instrument panel and the forward arm nests. Build'er Gothcha: Remove the gas struts if they are still installed! I didn't and while it is possible to remove the canopy after the fiberglass work is done, it adds more work and stress to the job!





Builder's note: I also ran tape on the inside of the canopy to fill the gap between the canopy bubble and the instrument panel and the gaps between the canopy and canopy frame.



Step 2: Put one thickness of duct tape on the edges of the Upper Forwrad fuselage and the upper forward fuselage skin.



Step 3: Trim the Canopy foam blocks.



Step 4: Position the foam blocks and mark and cut the 7/8" hole for the canopy bolt.



Builder's note: I covered the canopy bolt and washer with a thin layer of electrical tap.



Cleaned the arm with Lacquer Thinner. DON'T get this near the bubble canopy!



Here is the epoxy I used to glue the foam blocks on. It can be thickened with Flox. If this is your first time working with epoxy, talk to one of the composite airplane builders in your EAA chapter for pointers and possible some quick lessons. Before starting the fiberglass on the RV-10 kit, we have a workshop at our EAA chapter and it was well worth the time spent!





This completes page 34-13. Now it is time to let the RV-12 canopy set and cure.

Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build, Section 34: Canopy Installation (part 9)

Reference: Page 34-12; 2.5 hours

This entry continues the construction of the RV12 airplane canopy. With most of the plexiglass work behind me and the fiberglass work a few days out I'm just working through the needed projects to complete the job.

Step 1: Make the two Canopy Guide blocks.



Step 2: Radius the edges. I used a bench belt sander to radius the edges. Builder's note: They are hard to hang onto during sanding so I used two AN3 bolt partially thread in as handles.



Step 3: Machine countersinking the bolt holes in the Guide blocks. In the RV12 instructions Van's Aircraft says it is OK is they ore 0.015 inches too deep.



Step 4: Measure mark and drill (#30) the top hole fo the guide block into the roll bar per the RV-12 plans. The guide is used as a guide while tapping the hole into the roll bar.



Step 5: With the Guide block in its finish position. Run a #19 drill through the lower hole and just touch the roll bar with its tip. Move the block out of the way and finish drill with a #30 drill bit.



Tap the lower hole using the block as a guide. Clean the chips metal chips out and reinstall.



Step 6: Check the clearance between the Guide Blocks and the back set of screws on the canopy.





Builder's note: I'm still having some challenge with the canopy screws hanging up on the guide blocks when I lift the canopy from just one side. I did check both of Van's Aircrafts factory plane and one of the new RV-12 S-LSA planes to see if my blocks were installed wrong but they are fine. So I am slowly chamfering more and more of the outer bottom corner.

This completes page 34-12 of the RV-12 airplane plans.

Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build, Section 34: Canopy Installation (part 8)

Reference: Page 34-09, 34-10, 34-11; 3.5 hours

Step 2, page 34-09: Cleco the canopy to the front frame bow. Installed the screws that hold the canopy to the rear bow.Just tight enough so the screws don't turn freely.





Builder's note: I'm still not happy with the canopy clearance of the instrument panel. So off the canopy came and I removed more plastic.



Builder's note: I roller the top edges of the canopy skirts so they fit the bubble better.



Step 3: Riveted the skirts to the canopy frame and installed the screws along the side frame.





Riveted the canopy along the front bow (again the canopy was first warm before starting any of this work.



This completes page 34-09.

Step 1, page 34-10: Installed the canopy handle and latch. Greased it with Aeroshell #5 grease. the handle is not supposed to turn under it's own weight when the canopy is in its up position. Mine was fine until I grease it.





So I removed the latch assemble and slightly pinched it (as out lined in the RV-12 plans) with a pair of Vise Grips with tape over the jaws to protect the part. Is doesn't need much to work correctly.



Step 2: I Machine counter sunk the Latch Block using a small diameter countersink and installed it on the roll bar as directed in the RV-12 plans by Van's Aircraft.







This completes page 34-10.

Reference page 34-11, Step 1: Close the RV-12 canopy and check the clearances against the drawings on page 34-11 of the RV-12 plans.

Builder's note: As can be seen in the picture below, I have zero clearance above the latch handle and twice the maximum below the handle. This can be adjusted by filing down the latch tube on the canopy frame. But before doing this rather permanent adjustment I am going to finish the canopy and paint the roll bar to ensure the proper seating of the canopy.



Step 2: Fabricate the Latch Block and match-drilled it to the Latch plate.





I'm holding off installing the Latch Block until after I paint the roll bar.

This completes today's work on the canopy installation on the RV-12 airplane kitted by Van's Aircraft.