Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build: Final Assembly (part 9) Old Notification Completion

Reference: Notifications dated 8/31/12 and 2/11/13; 1.5 hours

I've been going through and checking the documentation of all the service bulletin and notifications for the RV-12 and preparing logbook entries for these. In my search, I came across two older notifications dealing with the electrical harness. Both apply to my RV-12 airplane because of the date these harnesses were received.

UPDATE: There is a GOTCHA for Notification 2/11/13. Even though my harness fit the dates of the Notification, so I changed the wires, the harness was correct before the change. Swapping the wires caused the problem outlined in the notification. So check the light operation first before changing the wiring!

Reference: Notification dated 8/31/12

This notification requires swapping two of the wires in the WH-00045 or WH-00026 harness. It depends on which Skyview harness system you have. Mine is the older conversion from the D-180 EFIS to the Skyview so it involves the WH-00026.

In light of the problem I had with the other wiring notification I called Van's to find out if there was any test that would show if these two wires needed changing or not. I was told if the wires are backwards then the Skyveiw will give a 4/8 error message.





Reference: Notification dated 2/11/13

This notification dealt with to wires that needed to be changed in the lighting harness WH-00031. Again my airplane was included because the harness was received before 2/11/13. The two wire are extracted using a extractor tool and swapped.

As noted above: I had to reverse the wires back to the original configuration as my wiring harness was wired correctly to start with.



This completes the work and rework for these two notifications on the RV-12 airplane.

Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build, Section 49: Cooling System (part 3)

Reference for this entry: page 49-04, 49-08, 49-09, 49-10; 6.0 hours

Today's contains with work on the RV-12 airplane's engine cooling system. I am adding a Builder's Gotcha only because it took three attempts to form a gasket on the Cooler Box Door. (some of us are slow learners;) I also a m jumping over the installation of the radiator until after the heater door control is completed. Because I can't see having to work around the hoses and radiator to install the control.

Step 1: Rivet the FF-1204A Cooler Box Face and FF-1206A Cooler Box Hinge to the F-1201C Firewall Bottom using the rivets called out by Van's Aircraft. Rivet the remaining holes common between the cooler box face and the firewall bottom.



Step 2: Rivet the FF-1204B Upper Cooler Box Rib and FF-1204C Lower Cooler Box Rib to the F-1201C Firewall Bottom using the call-outs in Figure 1.



Step 3: Rivet the FF-1204A Cooler Box Face to the FF-1204B Upper Cooler Box Rib and FF-1204C Lower Cooler Box Rib using the call-outs in Figure 1.





Step 4: Use the FF-1206C Hinge Pin to attach the Cooler Box Door Assembly to the FF-1206A Cooler Box Hinge. Safety wire the hinge pin to the FF-1204B Upper Cooler Box Rib. Use the provided safety wire holes in the upper cooler box rib.

Builder's note: This was not done until after the cooler door control was finished on 6/24/14.

Step 5: Cover the F-1201C Firewall Bottom with wax beneath the Cooler Box Door Assembly.

Builder's note: OK this is the GOTCHA. I tried packing tape, I tried PVA and then I final tried wax paper. The wax paper worked great! As it allowed me to look at the seal quality and RTV flow pattern before the RTV setup. I have included pictures of the failed attempt below for entertainment and education.

Step 6: Scour the aft face of the FF-1205 Cooler Box Door with Scotch Brite around the edge where the RTV gasket is depicted in Figure 2 on page 49-04.



Step 7: Add a bead of high temp RTV around the edge of the FF-1205 Cooler Box Door as shown in Figure 2 then close the Cooler Box Door Assembly firmly agains the firewall. Temporarily hold the door closed with tape from the end of the FF-1205B Cooler Box Bracket to the edge of the fuselage.















Builder's note: Here are some of the bad attempt below.





Reference: Page 49-08

Step 1: Modify a grommet to be used for firewall penetration. Using a socket and a vise, squeeze the grommet called out in Figure 1 in page 49-08, until the socket shears through the grommet (this will be accompanied by a distinct crunching sound).



Step 2: Install the firewall grommet from Step 1 into the control cable penetration location in the F-1201A Firewall Upper.



Step 3: Install the CT A-740 BLACK Push Pull Cable into the F-1202A Instrument Panel and through the firewall grommet installed in Step 2.

Builder's note: I had to chamfer the hole to get the control cable to set flush with the panel.





Step 4: Install a cushioned clamp on the F-1202B Panel Base to support the CT A-740 BLACK Push Pull Cable.



This completes page 49-08

Reference: 49-09

Step 1: Add three sets of cushioned clamps to the WD-1220 Engine Mount Ring routing the CT A-740 BLACK Push Pull Cable through each.



Step 2: Install the friction Comb between the lower set of cushion clamps.



Step 3: Pull the handle and attached wire of the CT A-740 BLACK Push Pull Cable completely out of the cable sheath.



Step 4: Using the dimensions in Figure 1 on page 49-09, trim the CT A-740 BLACK Push Pull Cable sheath.

This completes page 49-09.

Reference: Page 49-10

Step 1: Reinsert the CT A-740 BLACK Push Pull Cable into its sheath. Close the Cooler Box Door Assembly.

Step 2: Screw the jam nut all the way onto the rod end then screw the rod end all the way into the FF-1210 Cable End as shown in Figure 1. Using the bolt called out in Figure 1 temporarily attach the rod end to the FF-1205B Cooler Box Bracket.



Step 3: Push the CT A-740 BLACK Push Pull Cable wire in, leaving a 1/16 gap between the knob and the F-1202A Instrument Panel. Mark the location of the hole in the FF-1210 Cable End on the wire. Disassemble the rod end, nut and cable end from the FF-1205B Cooler Box Bracket.




This completes this work session on the RV-12 airplane.

Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build, Section 38: Cowling (part 5)

Reference for this entry: page 38-07, 38-08; 3.5 hours

Today again continues the cowl for the RV-12 including fitting the cowl oil door. I did run into a Builder's Gotcha on the way the door hinges fit.

Step 5: Trim the Cowl Oil Door. Shape the door as needed to fit the recess of the cowl.



This completes page 38-07.

Reference: 38-08

Step 1: Separate the Oil Door Hinge and deburr the hinge parts.



Step 2: Machine countersink the rivet holes in the Oil Door. Then rivet the door together.





Step 3: Using a unibit drill the Oil Door and cowl 1/4 inch. Using the cams the align the camlock recetacles and drill them #40.









Step 4: Final-drill the 1/4" holes in the cowl recess to 1/2".But don't drill the door!

Step 5: Counter sink the rivet holes for the reciptical in the cowl and then rivet these in place.

Builder's note: I used a flat washer so the rivet squeezer dies would clear the cowl door recess when setting the rivets.



Step 6 & 7: Temporarily assemble the hinge hardware on the oil door. Attach the Oil Door to the cowl and align the door. Then drill the hinge lugs into the cowl.




Builder's Gotcha: The hinge hits the cowl opening and need the be trimmed back. Also, my door didn't shut properly because of the difference in door hinge geometry.





To solve this I disassembled the oil door and added an extra spacer between the hinge and door as can be seen in this picture that was taken more recently.



So with the door fit solved I'm going to stop for the day.

Vans Aircraft RV-12 Airplane Build, Section 35: Landing Gear & Engine Mount (part 5) & misc jobs

Reference: Page 35-06; 1.5 hours

This last week I had another EAA Technical inspection from a different counselor. Jake my old counselor (retired?) in January of this year. Ernie has inspected at least 14 RV-12 constructions and know a lot about their weak point. So there are a few things I am going to correct and I will list them as they are completed and add them to the GOTCHA list.

The first on is were the wires come through the seat rib for the auto pilot servo. As can be seen in the first picture the wires come through the rib but can rub against the edge of the rib. So i install edge grommet to protect the wires.





Reference page 35-07 (previously page 35-06); SB 10-12-14

Inspected the nose fork per SB 10-12-14 and found no manufacturing defects. Step 1: Attach the WD-1201 Nose Gear Assembly to the fuselage using the hardware called out.



Step 3: Tap 5/16-24 the holes indicated in Figure 2 of the RV-12 plans on page 35-07. Thread screws into the WD-1230 Nose Fork Assembly as shown in Figure 2.



Step 4: Grease the SF 4048-16 Bronze Bushings with Aeroshell #5 or equivalent. Slide the WD-1230 Nose Fork Assembly, the two U-611 Washers, and the NAS1149F2090P Washer (The U-611 washers are "cupped", and to function properly, the outside perimeter of both washers must be in contact with each other when installed) onto the WD-1201 Nose Gear Assembly. Finally, thread on the MS21025-20 Nut.





Step 5: Thread safety wire through the bolt holes used to secure the Nose Wheel and Tire Assembly to the WD-1230 Nose Fork Assembly, then attach a spring scale to the end of the safety wire. Tighten the MS21025-20 Nut until a force of 18-20 lbs is measured as the Nose Fork Assembly pivots around the spindle. Use the nut as a drill guide and drill #30 both sides of the nose gear leg for the cotter pin. Deburr as required then secure the nut with the cotter pin called-out in Figure 2.







Step 6: Slide the U-1210A Axle through the bearings, then slide the U-1210B Spacer over the end of the axle as shown in Figure 3. Bolt the Nose Wheel and Tire Assembly, the axle, and the spacer to the Nose Fork Assembly using the hardware called-out in Figure 3. The Nose Wheel utilizes ball bearings that are prelubricated and sealed. The axle nut need only be torqued so that slight drag is produced from the bearings and then backed off slightly (approximately 1/4 turn). Please note that this is different than the torquing procedure used for the main wheel which has tapered roller bearings with an integral grease seal.

I didn't take any pictures of the mounted wheel. Not sure why. But this completes this entry and the installation of the landing gear with the exception of adding brake fluid and bleeding the brakes on the RV-12 aircraft.