RV-12 Stabilator (Part 6)

Reference: page 09-08; 3.5 hours

Today the outer skins will be installed on the Stabilator. In working on this, it struck me how easy pulling rivets for the RV-12 skins are compared to all the driven rivets on the RV-10. True, it is a different airplane with a different mission, but pulled rivets sure are easy. Let's get stared!

Step 4: Cleco the HS-1201-R & _L Main Skins to the Stabilator Skeleton Assembly. Cleco all of the holes in the bottom side of one of the main skins. Guide the upper aft flange of the main skin to the outside of the lower aft flange. Then cleco all of the holes on the top side.

Complete Step 5 with the first main skin. Then repeat this step for the remaining main skin.





NOTE: Rivets and locations for the left side main skin are a mirror of the right. The entire bottom side of the main skin is a mirror of the top side.

Step 5: Rivet only the top and bottom surface of the HS-1201-R & _L main Skins to the Stabilator Skeleton Assembly. Leave open the aft flanges of the main skin. Begin at the leading edge of the main skin and finish at the trailing edge. Leave open the aft outboard row of holes on the the top and bottom.







Step 6: Rivet the remaining open holes in the top and bottom of the Stabilator Skeleton Assembly between the HS-1201-R & _L Main Skins. Refer to the Stabilator Skeleton Assembly with the main skins attached as the Stabilator Assembly.



Builders note: As promised last time, here is a picture of the broken outboard end of the Stabilator skins. To form this I used the edge forming tool from Cleveland Aircraft Tools. Because of shadowing the rivets may appear like they are not properly seated, but they really are.



This completes page 09-08. If all goes well, the Stabilator will be completed next time.

RV-12 Stabilator (Part 5)

Reference: page 09-07; 5.5 hours

I just got official notice the aircraft registration number N24VA, that I am hoping to use for the RV-12, is now reserved. So with this news, it must be time to get back to the building this experimental light sport aircraft.

Step 1: Install the HS-1213A Inbd and HS-1213B Outbd Hinge Brackets to the HS-1202 Fwd Spar using the hardware called out in plans.

Builders note: I torqued the bolts and then marked them with orange torque seal.



Step 2: Install the HS-1210 Bushing between the HS-1213A Inbd and HS-1213B Outbd Hinge Brackets using the hardware called out. When installing each bushing or tightening the bolt the inbd and outbd hinge brackets should not yield to the bushings. Trim or replace bushings as necessary to maintain the spacing and angle of the inbd and outbd hinge brackets.

Builders note: Using a crows foot extension on a torque wrench is a good way to get in to set the torque on the nut. Just remember to do the needed calculation for the extra leverage it adds.





Step 3: Mark one of the HS-1218A Aft Hinges as right and other as left, and label the inboard end.

Step 4: Apply masking tape to the HS-1218A-R and HS-1218A-L Aft Hinges as shown in plans. Count from the same end of both hinges halves. These masked areas will be omitted when drilling in Step 5.



CAUTION: Before performing Step 5 study the HS-1223 Drill Guide to identify the difference between the notched edges (used in Section 8) and the un-notched edges used in this section.

NOTE: For tips using the HS-1223 Drill Guide refer to Page 8-3, Figure 5.

Step 5: Match-Drill #30 the HS-1218A-R Aft Hinge using the HS-1223 Drill Guide as called out. Orient the un-notched inset edges of the drill guide to be flush against the eyelets of the aft hinge half. Clamp the drill guide onto the aft hinge half. Use only the holes that are centered below each aft hinge eyelet. Omit the holes that align with the macking tape applied in Step4. Repposition the drill guide and repeat Step 5 until the aft hinge half is match-drilled at each eyelet, except where the macking tape is applied. Repeat Step 5 for the HS-1218A-L Aft Hinge.



Builder's note: In the picture above, there should be a hole under the eyelet at the end of the hinge, but I forgot to drill it the first time through and ended up drilling later.

This completes page 09-08.

Reference: Page 09-08

Step 1: Mark one of the HS-1201 Main Skins as HS-1201-R, that will be the right main skin. Mark the other main skin as HS-1201-L that will be the left main skin.



Step 2: Cleco the HS-1218A-L & -R Aft Hinge to the HS-1201 Main Skin. Orient the hinges flush to the inside of the aft flange aligned to the hole pattern nearest to the bend of the aft flange.





Step 3: Match-Drill #30 the holes at each masking tape location from the HS-1201-R Main Skin into the HS-1218A-L & -R Aft hinges. Match-Drill #30 the hole at the inboard end of both aft hinges.

Remove the aft hinges, deburr the holes and clear away any chips.





Builder's note: From here I started prepping and priming the Stabilator skins for the next steps. I decided to break the outboard edges of the skins. This is not required, however I feel it should give the stabilator a more finished look. If I can get a picture of this to turn out I will post it later.